What do photographers expect from a model and what do models expect from a photographer during a shoot ?   I hear many arguments on this subject and after finally getting tired of hearing many photographers and  models give their opinion that THEY think is correct I decided to tell you all how it really is in hopes that I can provide a little less friction in this lovely world of the model and fashion photography industry.

Ok so this is how this discussion is broken down.

We have photographers and models who shoot test shoots, paid and non paid but aren’t at the level yet to shoot commercial paid assignments, editorials or advertising.

Then we have photographers who shoot commercial assignments like catalogs, advertising, editorials and look books.  These photographers also shoot test shoots and model portfolios.   I fall into this category.   I have had many girls come to me from all over the country who want to get into modeling and some girls that are already modeling and they just need to update their books. Like I said,  I also shoot advertisements, editorials and look books.

Now when I shoot an ad gig or a catalog I am expecting the model to already know what he or she is doing.   This is NOT  the time for modeling 101. I am not going to tell you how to pose, where to look, what angles you look better shooting.  That is the job and responsibility of the model.  She is being paid because she knows how to “model” and I am being paid to photograph her.  My job as the photographer, is to direct her on what kind of looks I need her to emote.  I will help her “give good face.”  I will also talk to the model and give encouragement and keep the set “alive.”  The model is expecting me to direct her like a director would direct an actress and I am expecting that the  model knows how to take direction and turn my direction into the emotion I am asking for.   But you know as sure as the sun is gonna rise that the director on a film is not going to start giving acting lessons just as I am not going to give modeling lessons.  We are both professionals and expected to give our client what they are asking us to give them.  Let me remind you that there is a make up artist for the shoot, a hair stylist and a wardrobe stylist.  So all I am expecting from the model is to show up on time and ready to pose and take direction.

The other kind of shoot I do is model portfolio shoots.  This is where a girl will pay me good money to start her portfolio for her.  I shoot five different looks, in studio and on location.  I have a make up artist there the whole time.  I tell the model what kinds of outfits to bring and I ask her to practice posing in the mirror so she has some kind of a head start.  I DO NOT expect her to know what she is doing at all.  She has never modeled before and she is coming to me because I am a professional and I know what modeling agencies are looking for.  So I WILL tell her how to pose.  I WILL tell her where to look.   I WILL help her know what her best angles are and of course I WILL direct her to emote and “give good face.”  I also give the model encouragement and constantly talk to her and give her accolades throughout the whole shoot.  I will also point out what she is doing wrong and show her how to do it the right way.   So in this case one could call this modeling 101.  That is fine with me.  I get paid good money for this and I like to help and educate.

There is another kind of shoot that happens where we have “wanna be” models and “wanna be” photographers who are building their books and they both think they know what their role is in this kind of shoot when in fact BOTH of them are wrong, at least from the stories that I hear.   PLEASE DO NOT TAKE OFFENSE TO ME USING THE TERM WANNA BE.  I am not discounting these models and photographers in any way.  They have not reached the professional status yet and earned the right to be paid for their services because they have not perfected their craft up to a level where a client can depend on them to deliver.  They “wanna be” professional.  I was there at one point as everyone is.   Someone going to medical school wants to be a doctor, however  they have not had enough experience and perfected their skills enough to be trusted with a real human life. Can you get the analogy ?  I hope so.

Ok so now that we got the politically correct bullshit out of the way let me go on.  So as an example we have a girl who has created a profile on one of these amateur  model sites.  We have a boy who has created a profile on this site as well.  Boy “photographer” meets girl “model” and they schedule a test / creative shoot that will hopefully benefit both their portfolios as well as the make up artists portfolio.   Now because these three creative souls  haven’t been exposed to the professional world of fashion photography and modeling maybe  because they live in a city somewhere in the middle of the Bible belt, the only expectations they have come from their own little world of these online amateur modeling / photographer sites.  They look in on the chat rooms, the forums and read what everyone else is quoting as the Gospel of the modeling industry in this little bubble world community  and bingo, instantly our “photographer” and “model” think they both know what is expected of them and what is not.  The problem we have here is that our “photographer” is reading what the other “photographers” are  griping about and our “model” is reading what the other “models” are griping about and both sides are not working as one.

So on the test shoot our photographer is expecting our model to know how to pose, give good face and know all her good angles and our model is expecting our photographer to tell her how to pose, give good face and help her know all her good angles.  Well, well, well.  Can you see the train wreck about to happen ?  Not a pretty scene.  They start to argue, it gets uncomfortable and the shots end up looking like crap because NO ONE worked as a TEAM and COLLABORATED !    So listen up !  On shoots like these neither the photographer nor the model has enough experience to handle the shoot all on their own.  Therefore the solution is to help each other and if the model is not posing the way you want her to pose, Mr. Photographer,  then simply tell her and show her what you want.  I’ve actually struck a pose to show the “model” what I want.  Talk to her through the whole shoot.  Don’t just sit there like a dummy waiting for someone to pull the string on your back for your mouth to move.  And ….MOVE AROUND.  Look for good angles.  Don’t site in one place capturing one point of view.

Miss Model ?  If the photographer is not directing you and you need help, then tell him.  Your job as a model is to come to the shoot as prepared as you can be.  Don’t expect the photographer to give you every single pose.  If you want to become a professional model then do your homework and study !   Study magazines, fashion books, watch Americas Next Top Model. Some of that show is totally ridiculous  I know , but much of it is actually insightful.  Bring nice clothes for shooting.   You AND the photographer and the make up artist should all be involved with selecting the outfits for the shoot.  Have a theme and shoot at least four images with a different outfit and tell a story.

So in conclusion, professional models and photographers both know their roles and what is expected of them.  Amateur models and photographers don’t have enough experience and knowledge to know what to expect from each other.  So help each other out and do your homework so that each of you can bring some level of professionalism to the shoot  and everyone wins and leaves the shoot with a smile on their face rather than a frown.

Ok now it’s time to beat me up, praise me or both !  LOL   I would like to hear your sides and happenings.  And as always if you think this is an interesting article, retweet and Share and Enjoy down below.

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Hi everyone !  I just revamped my personal section on my site.  I uploaded a bunch of lifestyle photos.  Some are posed and some are candid.  The candid lifestyle shots with the mother and children were a challenge to shoot.  You’ve got to watch for everything.  It’s the little moments that are special which also happen so fast that you just cannot miss those moments.  You’re camera and eye have always got to be ready !  Here are some of those photos that capture the special moments.

Being on such a high treacherous cliff I couldn’t bring an assortment of lighting gear so I used by trusty Canon 580 EXII just enough to give them a little fill.  In Photoshop I added a bit of vignette and bumped the saturation a little.  Other than that no other post production was done.   I just told them to forget I’m there, just forget a photographer is even near you and do what you want.  So everything I captured was very natural.  Another good thing about not bringing a bunch of lighting gear is that the less invasive I am, the more natural reactions I will get from my subject.  Imagine having two strobes set up with umbrellas and sand bags right in front of them.  LOL  that would be invasive.

I love this next photo.  It just says so much.  Look at their faces and what they are saying to each other.  What I get from this photo when looking at the mother’s face is how much she loves him and what they have been through just in every day life.  She shows how much she really appreciates him as a son.  THAT is what makes a great photo.  When your subjects are speaking through their emotions.  When I am shooting and I get that from my subjects or models it’s an electricity that just runs through my blood like a flood of energy !

Again, I used my Canon 580 EXII to add a little fill and to over power the sun.  These lifestyle photos and more can be found here which also demonstrate many different lighting techniques.

A photographer friend of mine recently came to me very frustrated.  He is very good at shooting lifestyle, commercial, weddings and let’s call it commercial fashion.  On his website he had all these sections up.  He asked for my advice and opinion on what I thought.  I told him to narrow down to two – three categories of photography that you really love.  Don’t think about how much they pay, or how much they don’t pay, just shoot what you love.

I told him this is something we all go through in the beginning of our careers.  He was concerned and insecure because he doesn’t know what he loves the most.  Eventually I told him you will know what you love the most.  It took me three years to finally know in my heart that I love shooting fashion and beauty.  But not just fashion and beauty, fashion and beauty advertising.  It all works out.  When we first start shooting, we literally have to get to know ourselves again, but this time we have to get to know ourselves as a creative.  We go through growing pains, emotional let downs, the highs and the lows.  Trust me, every single photographer out there who is working has gone through this process.  It’s a friggin roller coaster and you know what ?  It sucks !  It really does.  I mean come on, can you really say in your heart that you loved your teen years as a kid ?  Hell no ! But eventually we grow up, well MOST of us do lol.  And we find our way.  The path opens up right before our inner eyes and heart.  Sometimes it takes a road trip all by yourself and just shoot.  Shoot whatever you think is cool, beautiful, weird or whatever !  Just shoot !  Take at least three days and just drive.  No destination in mind, no preconceived notions.  Just drive and stop when you want to and shoot.  If it’s a stupid cactus or a stupid wood fence and you think they look cool, shoot them !  Take your digital camera but also take a film camera.  Yes that’s right a film camera.  It’s time to grow up !  I can guarantee that when you return from your little trip, you will feel totally different.  Will you have found yourself ? I don’t know.  But if you don’t, take another road trip.

The voyage of self discovery is something that every creative goes through and listen to this, you will go through ANOTHER voyage of self discovery again in your career and probably another time too !  That’s ok though.  As creatives we don’t ever want to get stuck in a rut.  We feel stale and useless.  I will mention my very good close friend and celebrity fashion photographer Jerry Avenaim who coined the phrase voyage of self discovery.  He had his own voyage of self discovery early in his photography career.   To this day he still goes through discoveries here and there.  I do, my other colleagues do, actors do, you name it.  If you are a creative you will always continue to develop.

The reason I am talking about this is that as photographers you MUST shoot what you love.  If through your own voyage of self discovery you find that you have changed, then go with it.  Never forget this though; clients will hire you because they love your style.  It could be your lighting style, the way you pose your models, the emotion you evoke from your models or it could be that they don’t even know.  All they do know is that when they look at your portfolio, it grabs them and never lets go !  And that is the photographer they want to shoot their next campaign, look book, catalog or whatever.  Your passion for what you shoot does show in the photo.  The photo that you produce is in some way an extension of you !  Yes !  It’s true !

So as I leave you with these words of wisdom, don’t make growing up complicated.  Trust your own gut.  I will be 41 Dec. 6th and I can tell you that my guy has NEVER ONCE been wrong, NEVER !

I want to know your thoughts on this.  I want to hear all your voyages of self discovery.

This photo by the way was one of my first photos I ever shot with a real model.  It isn’t really fashion but it is by far the most popular photo I have ever taken.  It is a photo that gets me very much work because you FEEL when you look at it !

Beautiful Ballerina

Recently I photographed a beautiful fashion model for an editorial.  As you all know I like to keep my  fashion lighting very simple and raw concentrating more on the emotion and feeling of a photograph.  I decided to shoot in a hotel room on a bed with white sheets.  The only photo gear I brought was of course my camera, lenses and my Canon 580 EX II.

For this particular shot though I used the night stand lamp and  that’s it.  I took off the lamp shade which revealed two very bright energy efficient bulbs.  Then I put the lamp on an upside down trash can set just out of frame.  I wanted a really grainy look so I set my 5D Mark 2 ISO to 1000, put it on sticks and set my exposure to 1/25th @f/5.  If any of you “pros” out there think I am giving away a secret well you’re wrong.  You wanna know why you’re wrong ?  I learned this technique from Helmut Newton.  Now go take your secrets and ………

Ok I got that off my chest lol.  So now this is where the real seasoned photographer needs to come out.  I have a half naked 19 year old young girl on a hotel bed.  You think she feels really confident and secure ?  No, she doesn’t.  So it is my job to earn her trust, let me dig deep into her soul and capture her soul on film, well a CF card lol. I shot this in color and in post changed it to black and white.  If anyone has ANY questions please ask !

lingerie model photographed on bed

Not far from Los Angeles is Agoura Hills.  Very few fashion photographers make their home here.   A beautiful rural town with green rolling hills and a pioneering spirit embedded in the locals that have lived there since the towns inception.
When I look at this shot I feel something good and warm.  The model’s face isn’t even toward the camera however, just by her body position, the tilting of her head and hair flowing back closing her eyes enjoying the sun she evokes a feeling of being free, young, and happy.  What is interesting about this shot is it happened by accident.  It was VERY windy and cold so the model closed her eyes and dropped her head back to get warm from the sun.  I clicked the shutter and thought that it would be a trashed shot.  When I looked at it on my monitor at home I was stunned.  The green hills, yellow flowers and blue sky together with the blanket and Ugh boots just makes this photo come together.

Your model does not always have to be looking at the camera.  Remember as I have said before that a photo that evokes an emotion is a successful photo.  Even if something technically went wrong that just cannot be fixed in Photoshop it doesn’t matter.  As humans we FEEL.  We crave FEELING.  Your most successful advertising photos ooze emotion which in turn penetrates us inside our hearts causing us to go purchase that product.

On the technical side, I faced the model into the sun on purpose knowing the viewer would only see the right side of her face.  I filled the slight shadow with my Metz 54z on camera flash at a very low power setting just to add a little pop to bring out the colors of the blanket and green grass. Out of all the shots where she was looking at the camera, this one where she was not looking at the camera was the one that “hit” me right away.   I will be happy to discuss camera settings, flash settings etc.  **PLEASE ASK OR COMMENT **

Tags: advertising photos, agoura hills, camera flash, camera settings, colors, emotion, fashion photographers, green grass, metz, shutter, successful advertising, yellow flowers
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