Shooting The Catalog
November 1st, 2010Recently I shot a catalog or sometimes called a look book. A designer will call me asking me to shoot their new creations. Normally if everything on the designer end goes smoothly, I will shoot two seasons ahead. So this shoot which is for Simply Mimi, we shot this in August of 2010. The collection is Spring 2011. The time table isn’t always exact but everyone does their best to get the designs manufactured in time for the shoot. This will give the designer enough time to design the catalog / look book, send it out to her buyers and ship her orders to the various stores in time for the season they were meant for. Trust me, it NEVER runs that smooth and on time lol.
So this is a small sample of what I shot. Now let me explain something to you guys. You might be saying to yourselves that it looks really boring. Well, it is ! Shooting look books is boring UNLESS it is a look book for Gucci etc. You get my drift I’m sure. However, the bare bones fact is that I would rather be shooting than sitting in a cubicle all day answering a phone or working the drive through window. ” Welcome to Kentucky Fried Chicken may I take your order please?” as I spit my gum out that I’ve had in my mouth for the past 8 hours !
Catalog / look book shooting is easy, quick and you make a pretty penny for a days work or two. Do I put all my catalog work up on my site ? Heeeelllllll no !
I show my artistic side and creative side on my site. IF the look book is cool enough then I will put it up on my site.
So what is involved in shooting a catalog / look book ? As you can see the lighting is all the same. You MUST bring out the texture of the clothes and show them well. This is not about being fancy and artistic with your lighting with dark shadows and moods. These look books are for buyers of major department stores and they want to see the garments they are investing in. Sometimes I will also shoot a lifestyle shot or two or three etc. to go along with the look book if the client asks.
So there ya go. One of my recent catalog / look books. Hit me up with any questions you have. Trust me, I haven’t included every detail in this post because I am trying to get you all to think about what else is involved and ask me questions so we can get some interaction going 
Here we have from left to right; fashion model, designer, Jason Christopher- photographer and a fashion model.
November 1st, 2010 at 5:51 pm
Hi Jason,
Thanks for sharing your look book / catalog techniques with us. Do you plan out all the shots or is it a collaborative effort between you and the designer? Also, is the designer always present for the shoot?
What type of lighting did you use with this particular shoot?
Okay, I’ll stop with the questions now. Thanks!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 1st, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Hi Marla,
I always plan out the shots for every kind of shoot, whether it’s an ad campaign, a catalog, look book, model portfolio etc. There are many reasons for this. I need to know what lighting to use and how much to use, and I also like to be prepared so we don’t end up spending all our time talking when we should be shooting. It is always a collaborative effort between me and the designer. The designer will email some ideas she or he has seen and I will add my twist to the shots.
Yes the designer is always present for the shoot. The clothes are their babies and their career depends on the shoot. So I don’t have any pressure do I ? lol
I just used Profoto strobes for this. I attached a large softbox and placed it at an angle so the lighting wouldn’t be flat. I also placed a 4′x8′ black V-flat close to the model to create the negative fill on the model’s left side.
And you can never ask me too many questions. Please always ask as much as you want
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November 1st, 2010 at 6:07 pm
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Jason Christopher and Jason Christopher , Jason Christopher . Jason Christopher said: The business of shooting a designers catalog/ look book. http://fb.me/Kap4VNqm [...]
November 1st, 2010 at 6:17 pm
Thanks Jason! I appreciate you taking the time to answer all my questions.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 1st, 2010 at 6:20 pm
You’re so welcome hun. Anytime.
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November 2nd, 2010 at 3:40 pm
So, why don’t you tell us how one goes about getting these “look book” gigs? I guess living in California (or any major metropolis) helps.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 4th, 2010 at 1:32 pm
Hi Brian.
Good question. Yes living in a major city is definitely a must. Another way to get look book or catalog gigs is to have great web presence. That means making sure your SEO is top notch so that you come up at least on the first page of Google searches. Then of course you have to have quality images and your own style that a designer will want to hire you for.
Ok so let’s say you’re still working on getting your site to that level, what other ways can a photographer get to these designers ? I have found that you can find any company you want on the website Linkedin. And on their profile they even list all the major players in the company. But the person you want to contact is the one that is in charge of marketing. They are the people that hire photographers.
I must tell you that the majority of designers are in LA or NY. And they aren’t going to fly someone out from Idaho to shoot for them. So if you do live far from LA or NY or even Miami then you really need to think about making a move.
Did that help you Brian ?
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Brian Reply:
November 4th, 2010 at 2:01 pm
Totally helped! Thank you!
I’ll stick to portraits and weddings ’cause I’m too damn old to pick up and move and start all over again.
I will continue to look to your work and words for inspiration and information though
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 8th, 2010 at 2:54 pm
You’re very welcome buddy. Hey you can make good money shooting portraits
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Brian Reply:
November 8th, 2010 at 3:35 pm
Not anymore you can’t!
People ask: how’s business? Wonderful, I tell them, everyone’s doing it!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 8th, 2010 at 5:55 pm
LOL Ya you know you’re right. To the day I die I will always regret the invention of digital cameras. I HATE DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY. Yes you can quote me on that. It has enabled lazy wanna be photographers to work in this business without learning the ACTUAL business.
November 3rd, 2010 at 10:07 am
Hi Jason
Do you have a range of poses that you get the models to run through each time or do you let them go at it and just shoot?
If you do have poses what are some of the most common ones?
Also what are you thinking, composition-wise, when looking through the finder for a shoot like this?
and last of all how do you find catalog/look book jobs?
do they contact you through your site or do you go out and pitch for them?
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 8th, 2010 at 3:13 pm
Hi Richard,
For catalog shoots it’s the models job to come up with the poses. That’s what they get paid for. I’m not a model coach on commercial jobs. I will make suggestions if I think of something cool and so will the designer.
As far as composition is concerned, the designer and I go over this as well as the look of the shoot about a week before. Everything is planned out. The MOST important thing I am thinking about when I look through the viewfinder are the clothes. If the clothes are wrinkled in any areas, if a top isn’t sitting just right on the shoulder etc.
And to get these jobs the designers contact me after seeing my website. I also send out promos once in a while but my website is a huge marketing tool.
Thank you for your questions Richard ! If you like the post share and enjoy or retweet !
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November 3rd, 2010 at 11:28 am
I like the shots – they’re clear and the light is interesting but does not take over the shot. What camera settings did you use – f-stop, shutter speed, iso?
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 4th, 2010 at 1:44 pm
Hi Lloyd.
For this shoot the settings did not change even though I was combining natural light with strobes and as the day progressed the natural light began to get darker. I knew that in post I would have to blow out the windows. In the background was the city of Hollywood and the designer didn’t want to see that. So I chose to blow out the natural light.
So my settings were ISO 400 f/5.6 @ 1/80th shutter speed. I was on my 85mm.
Thank you for the question Lloyd. Please click the retweet button if you like the post.
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November 4th, 2010 at 11:54 am
Hey Jason, love the latest post. I’m glad you called out the fact that other photographers tend to hoard their secrets, when really they’re not secrets =).
I do have a question regarding the photoshoot you did with the catalog. What was your light set up for shooting against the large industrial windows? Lighting is great.
What do you expose for?
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 8th, 2010 at 5:48 pm
Jaymer thank you !
Ya the guys who hoard their “secrets” are really just insecure about not getting work and losing it to others. I have no fear of that at all because I am confident in my work.
So the lighting set up for this shoot was very simple. I used a large 6 foot soft box camera left about 6 feet away from the model. I feathered it towards the wall so the light wouldn’t look so flat. I also placed a solid black v-flat very close to the model just out of frame to add negative fill. My assistant took an exposure of the light coming through the huge windows and we knew we wanted to blow them out so my exposure ended up being 1/80th @ 5.6 ISO 100 ON my 85mm lens. The slow shutter speed allowed me to let the ambient blow out the light coming in from the windows. I’m gonna make a diagram and post it.
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July 10th, 2011 at 5:49 pm
Jason,
Thank you for your insight on this business. I am trying to start my own studio in Phoenix, az and I am not an ADVANCED photographer, but i am not an amateur. I am completely self taught and know a lot about adjusting my camera and lighting, but i dont know the technicalities of it. As far as the terminology goes. I have worked so far with some cheap lights, one soft box in front and lights on the sides with umbrellas.
It is really difficult for me to balance all the lighting to get that clear crisp look.
I find that when i edit the photos, they tend to be more bright on one side than the other. Do you have any suggestions on what to buy for my studio for the best quality light? I will only have around 1500 for a lighting set up…
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Jason Christopher Reply:
September 6th, 2011 at 2:58 pm
Hi Kay,
You already have enough gear. What you need now is either my private work shop I offer or study on your own. Bottom line is you need more education. Are you aware I offer private workshops ?
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November 13th, 2011 at 7:44 pm
Hey jason,
I just wanted to know, when shooting a fashion look book plain white backgrounds which lights will be best to use soft box lights, flash/speed lights or combination of both.
If there is a budget, what would still give the look book a great look?
thanks,
chantelle
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 30th, 2011 at 12:24 pm
Hi Chantelle,
When lighting a plain white BG it is best to use white medium sized umbrellas. I usually use two, one on each side.
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