How To Get Fashion Models
March 19th, 2010How does a new photographer who is trying to build their portfolio get quality fashion models to test with ? I have been asked this question many many times. So I figured I would blog about it.
I will tell you how I did it. Back in the day there was no internet, well there was but it was all dial up and very very slow. Not many sites had made their way on the world wide web yet especially actual model agencies. So the only way to look at models to test with was to literally walk into t he agency tell the first person I saw that I was there to look at model zed cards to shoot for my portfolio. LOL the receptionist walked me to the woman who handled the “New Faces” board. Was I nervous ? Actually no I was not. I compare it to when a child is faced with a task and has never experienced failure so they don’t know what failure feels like. I had no reason to be afraid because I had no idea what to expect !
So I explained to the agent that I was a new photographer who needed to step up the quality of my portfolio / book with real models who had that model look. Now you are probably asking what did I walk into the agency with ? I had a book. I had photos of my sister who used to model and still looked good. They were mostly head shots. I had photos of her beautiful friends and they introduced me to their friends and so on. Of course what was missing was the styling, make up and that “fashion look” and I knew that. I even had some family portraits thrown in with some great portraits of children I had shot.
Now even though I didn’t have a book like Irving Penn, Mario Testino or Sante D Orazio it didn’t matter to them. What the agent saw was that I knew how to compose and light a shot. More important, I knew how to take girls that had no modeling experience, except for my sister and make them look pretty damn good. All that was missing was a good stylist, make up and hair. But the agent didn’t just hand over a bunch of zed cards and say here ya go take your pick ! She told me to shoot some more and come back in a month to show her more. It was just paying dues. She also told me to study fashion magazines. And this is THE most important part of how to shoot fashion. As a fashion photographer you MUST know fashion ! Shit, the term fashion photographer has the word fashion in it !!!
So I sat my ass in Barnes and Noble and looked at every fashion magazine that existed. I shot more and more and went back to that agent and she was impressed. She gave me one model to test out. From there the ball kept rolling. She did have alot of feed back for me and I did make mistakes.
My challenge to you all is to forget Model Mayhem, One Model Place and any of these online “anyone can be a model” sites, grab your balls and walk into an agency just like I did.
If you are interested in the feed back she gave me and find out what mistakes I made, just ask ! I look forward to your questions. This topic is covered heavily in my private fashion photography workshops where I teach you all you need to know of the ins and outs so you don’t make mistakes and you can walk into a modeling agency with confidence.
Tags: fashion models, fashion photographer, fashion photography workshops, great portraits, head shots, mario testino, model agencies, models for fashion portfolios, new faces, photographer, portfolio book, zed cards
March 19th, 2010 at 7:52 pm
Thanks for the excellent post.
Getting the right models is difficult, especially with sites like model mayhem, where every chick with a boob job is a “model” and they think you should shoot them for free or even pay them. LOL!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 23rd, 2010 at 7:58 pm
Ok I am not afraid to say this as you all know by now that I speak my mind and am not afraid to do so. Model Mayhem is a joke. Yes there are SOME legit models on that site and they are with real agencies. The percentage is small. The vast majority of the girls on Model Mayhem should be ashamed to call themselves a model. They have no clue how hard it is to actually model and hot tiring it is.
Any male or female can post some photos from their cell phone on that site and call themselves a model. STAY AWAY from that site and others like it. If you want to use it to promote yourself then do so. But eventually you MUST take the next step and shoot real models from agencies.
You know what is ironic ? When I started the first step was to walk into an agency. There wasn’t even the option of going online and shooting “girls” that call themselves a model. LOL What a world.
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Wil Randolph Reply:
April 28th, 2010 at 2:58 pm
Thanks Jason. This is fantastic advice. I am struggling to find “that model look” type model as you coined it. Fortunately, I enjoy keeping up with fashion. It is a necessary component of being a fashion photographer. We love art but fashion photography is art with a purpose. The man or woman who took that Vogue pic, or Elle pic is where I want to be. It makes sense to study what’s working and avoid what’s not. Great advice which is why months ago I subscribed to all the major fashion mags and its helped me immensely posing my models and honing my lighting setups.
Approaching an agency is intimidating. My portfolio is growing but at a much slower rate than I’d like. I think my shots are ok but I’m ready for the extraordinary; the kinds of pics that put you on the map and gets people to start taking you seriously; something to attract department stores, designers, and boutiques.
As for Model Mayhem, I am guilty for signing up a few months ago as a means of networking. But while there are several great photographers, models, and muas there, there is a great deal of crap as well. Unfortunately, much of it isn’t even photography, it’s fancy editing and overly done retouching. Much of it comes across very amateurish. I’m tempted to cancel my membership in fear that it may damage my credibility as a serious photographer. Any thoughts on that?
My goal is to get the image right the moment I pull the trigger with little to no retouches. But even then keep aiming higher because the moment a photographer starts to think they’ve made it and they’re the best is the moment they lose their edge and their imagination.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
May 3rd, 2010 at 11:42 am
Will I couldn’t agree with your more ! Thank you for the compliment as well. Just keep shooting and studying and you will grow. Trust me, I went through it as well as my colleagues.
I don’t think being on Model Mayhem will damage your credibility as long as you don’t take it too seriously and ask for critiques and use many of those inferior images influence you. As I have said, there are some AMAZING artists on that site but they don’t take it too seriously. They use it to test models for upcoming projects, maybe some paid tests and also to find some talented artists to add to their team.
With every shoot you want to test yourself and that includes getting it right when you pull the trigger. Of course every photo is going to need a bit of retouching but NEVER shoot and say Oh I’ll fix it in post. Then you have lost respect for yourself and your mentors.
I go over all of this and more when you take my private workshop. See this page for more info.
http://jasonchristopher.com/workshop.htm
And thank you for your comments and questions Will.
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March 20th, 2010 at 12:46 am
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March 20th, 2010 at 6:04 am
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March 20th, 2010 at 11:19 am
Great post although I wonder how accommodating agencies would be with everyone being ‘so busy’ all the time and with focus on the internet and emails as primary forms of communications.
Suppose there’s only one way to find out…
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 23rd, 2010 at 8:00 pm
Marc,
Forget about the being so busy and focus on the internet bullshit. Just go into an agency. You do not need an appointment. Yes the only way to find out is to just do it. If you are confident in your work then walk in and tell them why you are there.
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March 20th, 2010 at 7:51 pm
Hey Jason… I am really curious what that feedback was that you received from your first agency? So far all I’ve received for feedback is… ‘For fashion photos, its really hard for me to direct photographers what I need as an agency for my models. I either feel it with a photographers work or I don’t. I think your fashion is cool, just not totally there quite yet for me.’ While this is sort of “helpful”, I’m just not quite sure what I can draw from this or what I can do to improve… other than to keep shooting.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 23rd, 2010 at 8:21 pm
Hi Michelle,
Ok some of the feedback I got is going to relate to you and your fashion and beauty work. The feedback I got was the make up is horrible, the styling is horrible and you just don’t know fashion.
Well you can imagine that I almost fell over. My reply was: “Well the make up artist didn’t do a very good job. I didn’t like the make up but that is what she did.”
The agent’s response was: “Well then why did you use that particular make up artist and why didn’t you direct her and tell her what you wanted?”
The reason I didn’t tell the make up artist anything was that I was afraid to. I was afraid to step on anyone’s toes. I look back now and laugh of course. I finally got it through my head that your team is there to realize the photographer’s vision and bring it to reality, just like the actors and crew bring the director’s vision on a film to reality. YOU are the boss. YOU call the shots. And if you don’t have big enough balls then grow them !
Now with your fashion and beauty Michelle, it looks like more portrait work than fashion. You have got to study fashion and know it and own it. That includes make up and hair. I’m not saying you need to know how to apply the make up, actually do hair and actually style, however you do need to know what is appropriate and what looks good. When I looked and your beauty I didn’t see anything that looked like a beauty photo at all. Look at Allure for some cool beauty shots. The styling is not fashion at all on any of your shots. What I did at first was literally buy the outfits myself and return them.
I don’t want to make this a critique of your work, i just wanted to point out some similarities we both shared.
And it’s true what the agent said. You just know that you are looking at a great fashion photo when you see it.
These are all the little things I teach in my private workshop. Being a good fashion photographer is not just about learning how to light and be a great technical lighting genius, it’s also about knowing FASHION. If you wanna be a nature photographer then you need to know nature, habits of the animals you are shooting etc.
I hope this helps.
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Wil Randolph Reply:
April 28th, 2010 at 3:02 pm
These are fantastic insights. The first thing I discovered was that I needed more creative input into the styling. This is why its so critical to know fashion and what constitutes a fashion look. I also had to understand what genre of photography I was trying to do. Is it beauty, glamour, or fashion? Editorial or otherwise? We should always know what our intent is aside from the times we’re simply being intuitive and spontaneous.
This is great Jason. Thanks.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
May 3rd, 2010 at 11:46 am
You are so correct Will and I am glad you have come to these realizations. Thank you for your compliment and your contribution to my blog. Everyone can always benefit.
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March 22nd, 2010 at 11:23 pm
So what was her feedback and what mistakes did you make???
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 23rd, 2010 at 8:56 pm
Hi Stacey,
Michelle asked the same question and you can refer to my reply to her to read about the feedback I got, I would also like to add some other thoughts for you.
Besides being inept at make up, styling etc. I was also told that I didn’t know how to direct the models. Well that confused me. How am I supposed to direct a model ? Isn’t that for actors ? Not at all. A model has to act without speaking. And it is the photographers job to direct the model to show emotion and give emotion with the eyes and not only with body language.
I was also told that I need to tell stories with my photos. That could mean like shoot 4-6 different looks that have a theme or even two shots that are in a location that is specific and with the clothes and good direction, the two photos tell a story.
I was also told that I need to take more control of my shoots. To tell my vision to my team and be sure they bring that vision to reality. The agents can tell when looking at a photo if the photographer is not taking control of their shoot. Remember, they have seen and see thousands of photos and you can’t put anything past them.
Another VERY important thing I was told was to not slap on so much make up. They like natural and clean. After all, they are selling their models, not make up or clothes.
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March 23rd, 2010 at 12:21 am
Great post!
I recently stepped through the doors of a model agency for the first time. A really good experience. I was pretty nervouse at first, but after speaking with them I felt I took the next step in the development of my photography.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 23rd, 2010 at 7:53 pm
Hi Conrad,
Yes I was VERY nervous for my first time. I compare it to a first date or dating in my teens. If I knew then what I know now oh boy ! lol.
It is a step you have to take if you want to advance in your career. Remember this: THEY NEED YOU MORE THAN YOU NEED THEM !
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March 23rd, 2010 at 7:39 pm
Thanks for sharing this adventure with us! Wow, I’m about ready to forget the “model mayhem” crowd and make my move on several Philadelphia area modeling agencies. How’s this for having guts? I’m going into these agencies not just to have them allow me to photograph their new talent, I’m going to pitch them on PAYING me a fee for my services. And, I want them to provide or pay for hair, makeup and stylist. I’ll gladly take my studio to them, if they want to have a multi-newbie shoot…. Just give me a room with a tall ceiling and a way to control the light sources and I’m cool with that. Now, what kind of fee is reasonable? $50 per hour? $100 per face? Is there any way to collect fees from agencies for your post-processing time for doing touch ups, etc? I’m done with my past way of doing business: I hire two Model Mayhem girls, and I hire a make up artist with some basic experience, and I bring in a jewelry or clothing designer friend with some wonderful clothes and things to model and we shoot some great looks for 4 hours and I end up paying out probably $200 for hair/makeup plus $100 or more for each model. My out-of-pocket costs to build my portfolio are up to $400 minimally, and that doesn’t include my studio rent, the seamless paper that I just burned up and my time! My designer friends all get free pictures and the girls get some great experience and pictures. I get to figure out why I keep getting poorer and poorer. So, I’m ready to try something new. Does anyone have any suggestions or war stories to share here? tom@tombyrnephotography.com
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 25th, 2010 at 1:02 am
Hi Tom,
Ok first of all you have been doing it all wrong. I have NEVER paid a make up artist, hair stylist, wardrobe stylist or model for a test shoot and you shouldn’t either. The whole idea of a test shoot is to get your team together and shoot something you all can use for your books. Everyone is in it to get something they can use. Therefore no one gets paid. That is standard in LA , NY and Miami. But for some odd reason I hear your same story everywhere else in the country and I don’t understand why.
Second of all, don’t go into an agency demanding to get paid or even expecting to get paid and especially expecting the agency to provide you with hair and make up. It’s not gonna happen. Do you wanna know why it’s not gonna happen ? Because now that every Ton Dick and Harry has a digital camera and is great at Photoshop, the agencies don’t need to pay a photographer. Yes it is true back in the day when we shot film that photographers would get paid from the agency but unfortunately there are a massive amount of photographers out there who cream their pants just to get the opportunity to shoot a “real” fashion model and will do it for free. They are only hurting themselves and others in the long run.
My advice to you is to go into the agency with your printed book and ask to talk to the booker of new faces and tell him or her that you would like to improve your portfolio by shooting models from their agency. They will give you a brand new face to try you out. If they like your work they will start giving you more and more. And then they will start to give you better models to shoot. And then when you reach the point where you are casting for a job, they will send you their best girls and not charge the client an arm and a leg. Do you wanna know why they will do all this for you ? Because you gave them what they needed and you also got what you needed which was better models for your book. In the long run this is worth much more than a few hundred bucks which is nothing by the way. It is much much more important to have great models in your book than make a measly few hundred bucks. And YES it is YOUR job to put together a great team of make up and hair artists that will stick with you.
If an agency gets one great shot from a shoot you will make them happy. I gave them many great shots and my relationships have stayed strong with every agency in LA.
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March 24th, 2010 at 4:55 am
haha yes I agree model mayhem is a joke same people on there are the same people on fb or myspace. but i mainly use it for mu, hair, all the other behind the scene people. my question is how long did it take you till she started sending her models & when they did test with you did you have a team or was it just they brought what they had and you just started shooting?
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 25th, 2010 at 12:38 am
Hey Antoine !
Good question. And you said what I was going to say. Model Mayhem is a joke and I despise that site. You find me on there. When I started I had to find my own make up and hair people by getting them from the make up schools and then weeding through the bad ones to get to the good ones.
It took about 6 months before I could call up the agency and request a model for a shoot. By then I had found a solid make up artist and hair person. No I never let the model do their own hair and make up. As for styling, I actually went and bought the clothes and returned them. I did this until I got connected with stylists I could trust. One thing just leads to another. One connection leads to another connection.
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March 24th, 2010 at 6:15 am
When I decided to graduate from ModelMayhem models (god bless ‘em!) and work with agency models, I did the same thing: went down there and met face to face. Some agencies actually have open call times for photographers (although one agency who had that on their website was very surprised when I walked in…they had NEVER had anyone walk in and had forgotten to take it down!). That agency was a dicey one at best anyway, but the next one I saw that day was a major one. The new-faces woman looked at my portfolio for about thirty seconds and said “sure, pitch me a shoot idea and I’ll see what I’ve got”. I was flying high on the ride home, but then realized…wait, I have to pitch to her? I thought she would have demands on me.
Turns out it’s not that simple. The agency is NOT the client. The agency is a vendor. They don’t tell you what to do, they provide you with services (modeling services). So it’s up to the ‘testing’ photographer to come up with shoot concepts and looks. But since you’re getting the models for free, you had better have a good idea. That took some getting used to.
As for Tom’s idea that he can walk into the model agency and ask to be hired…good luck! If you’re really amazingly good, then maybe it’ll happen. But it’s my experience that agencies aren’t going to send models to a test they have to pay for unless the photographer has a track record with testing already. You’re better off showing what you can do on a trade basis first, and then suggest that you get paid when they have confidence in your abilities. These days, any model can get half-decent shots for free. That’s what ModelMayhem is for (from a model’s perspective). Only if an agency requires a look that needs exceptional skill/experience will an agency send a model to pay for a test.
The model/photographer financial relationship is an unstable one, because neither are truly the client. Both are trying to get paid, not doing the paying. I would not bother thinking of agencies as potential sources of income (although they can provide a trickle, if you pay your dues). Rather, consider them a source of pre-selected model talent, so you don’t have to wade through tons of MM profiles.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 25th, 2010 at 1:04 am
Matt you have hit the nail RIGHT on the head ! God damn I am so glad someone gets it !!!!! You will go far my friend with a great attitude like that.
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March 26th, 2010 at 1:30 am
Thanks for posting this!… Whats the standard when your on location for hair&Make-up to get ready?…A motorhome for big jobs I imagine but what about some of the lower budget jobs or test shoots,do you set up a table & mirror some were,, but what if its a busy outdoor location,,, or maybe they get H&MK-UP before arriving to the location….Can you touch on these logistics because it seems to be on the photographer’s shoulder’s to set all this up! Thanks.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 26th, 2010 at 4:58 pm
Hi Greg,
Yes you are correct that it is all on the photographer’s shoulders, that is why we get paid the big bucks
It all depends on the budget of the shoot. On any of my big budget shoots yes we rent a huge motor home for the models, hair and make up etc. On lower budget jobs on location the make up is done at the location of the clients business and then we go out to the location. The make up artist brings a portable kit with her as well as the hair artist and they really don’t need anything more than a hand held mirror that they would use in a salon. Sometimes there happens to be a bathroom in the vicinity and they use that. If the model has to change and there is no place for that, then it’s time to pull out the big blanket and the females on the crew use this to cover her so she can change on the spot. The bottom line is that you do whatever you have to do to get the job done, and the models know this and are used to this. Thank you for your question Greg.
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Wil Randolph Reply:
April 28th, 2010 at 3:30 pm
I think you made another great point here Jason; “…whatever you have to do to get the job done…” I think this is another reason to start my search for agency models. Like the photographer they’re trying to book jobs and get paid like we are. All things being equal they’re gonna not only bring more experience to the table but also a willfulness to do whatever needs to be done to make the shot. If they’re experienced they will intuitively deduce what needs to be done creating less stress for the photographer.
The path of least resistance is sometimes the best path. It’s time for me to start scouting model agencies in the Seattle-Tacoma area.
Thanks.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
May 3rd, 2010 at 11:50 am
Thank you Will. I think you are doing the right thing. Either crap or get off the pot as they say lol
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April 1st, 2010 at 11:10 pm
[...] How To Get Fashion Models for a photographer portfolio | Fashion Photography Blog::photography works… [...]
April 4th, 2010 at 9:31 pm
I like this post, and this comment thread is great!
I did the Model Mayhem thing for a while, then realized it was quality over quantity. I have friends, and friends of friends who work at agencies here in LA, but I didn’t have the confidence in my work as demonstrating my abilities…. If the model was right the makeup wasn’t; if the light was right, the clothes were wrong — something was always off. So I started to concentrate my efforts on building a team; and over the past few months of working to get the right people on the same page, I feel as though I can start to develop a congruent, branded book as I begin to turn to friends for help.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
April 5th, 2010 at 12:21 pm
Hi Myles,
Thank you ! That is great that you came to your senses and took matters into your own hands with the right people. And remember, you can always come here and ask questions. I am an open book to share with everyone
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Wil Randolph Reply:
April 28th, 2010 at 3:31 pm
Fantastic idea Myles. A team of trusted individuals who you feel has the tenacity and work ethic to do what needs doing. A team of people that have mutual creative chemistry.
Thanks Myles.
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April 5th, 2010 at 10:31 am
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January 4th, 2011 at 6:55 pm
Fantastic Post and excellent questions and responses also. I am really glad I found this blog as it is the kind of information that I am looking for to take things up a notch i.e. to graduate from the MM School.
If I was to add to the topic, it would be this. Is it always better to go through an agency to test with a model or is it ok to go to the model directly? I suppose there would be better chance of the model working with you if the agency ”told” here to rather than a random no-name photographer emailing her and looking for a test shoot.
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April 19th, 2011 at 2:31 am
Commendable job done by you. Congratulations!!! blog is presented in a nice way! This is fantastic advice for me. I am struggling to find “that model look” type model as you coined it. Thanks!
Agence de mode Paris
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May 28th, 2011 at 12:50 am
Sadly mm is a joke a big one. It used to have a few decent people but i tend to stay on models.com and brokendollmodels.com. They are much more professional and a better place agency signed models such as myself.
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August 14th, 2011 at 11:48 am
bisuteria…
How To Get Fashion Models for a photographer portfolio | Fashion Photography Blog::photography workshops, fashion photography technique with extensive advice and lighting diagrams for every type of photographer….