Beauty Lighting Diagram
February 13th, 2010This is a very popular beauty photo of mine that everyone asks how I lit and how I got the cool looking catch lights. I want to clarify a couple things first though. Catch lights are the reflection one sees in the pupil of the eye of the actual light modifier that the photographer uses. How a photographer creates those catch lights is based upon which light modifier he or she uses.
So catch lights can be in the form of an umbrella, a soft box, a beauty dish, a Mola reflector , a bare bulb, a Photoflex or Westcott reflector etc. And it is where you place those light modifiers that determine where you see the catch light / reflection of your light modifier. Ok so with that said here is the photo that demonstrates my use of a small umbrella and a round 36″ silver Photoflex reflector.
In this next photo I show you the close up of the eyes so you can actually see the metal splines of the umbrella on top of the pupil and the round silver reflector on the bottom of the pupil.
I created a lighting diagram for you. In this beauty lighting diagram the background paper is gray in color. The model is about 9 feet from the background. The strobe that is behind the model is facing the back of her hair and is placed 3 feet away from the model and is one and a half stops brighter than the main light. The ratio will vary depending on the lightness or darkness of the hair color. The strobe is on a stand and the same height as the model’s head.
The umbrella I am using is a Westcott 32″ white satin with the black backing left on it. I place it right in front of the model and above eye level as you can see in the catch light. It’s about 4 feet away from the model. I am standing right under it.
The silver Photoflex umbrella is placed on a Westcott reflector arm at breast level and I angle it until I like the amount of fill. This is subjective to each photographer.
Be sure to click the images so you can see them much larger. Lighting techniques like this are part of what I teach in my private photography workshops. We learn one on one as you watch me set up the lighting , shoot and direct the model. Then it is your turn to shoot and direct the model. Hands on experience is vital to learning. I welcome your comments, questions and thoughts.
February 13th, 2010 at 6:44 am
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February 13th, 2010 at 5:36 pm
Jason thank you so much for these tips. They really help to narrow things down to detail. It’s really the little things that make a difference in what makes a photo great! I normally specialize in weddings but am making my way into fashion and commercial work. I love reading and watching your blog and will continue to do so!
And trust me, right now I am saving up some money to come out there and attend one of your workshops. They look like such a blast, and what better way is there to learn then to have a personal tutor?! Look forward to meeting you some day! Thanks. Dusty
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Jason Christopher Reply:
February 16th, 2010 at 8:56 pm
Hi Dusty ! You’re very welcome. Yes you are correct about the little things that make a difference.
My workshops really are fun and you learn alot. I went to your site, nice work. I see you live in Colorado. Next weekend I have a photographer from Colorado coming out to take my private workshop.
Please read through the archives and you are always welcome to ask questions and comment. And if you have any suggestions on any topics you would like covered please let me know.
Cheers !
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February 17th, 2010 at 2:26 am
Do you use a lot of photoshop?
I’m really interested to know more about your photography!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
February 22nd, 2010 at 4:11 am
Hi Sofia,
My beauty shots are where most of the post production goes in to. I have a team of retouchers that know what and how I like my work to look. My lighting is NEVER fixed with my beauty shots, however the skin is retouched. I try to light to minimize the amount of retouching needed. Of course females have some good skin days and some bad skin days as we all know and that just cannot be fixed in camera or with lighting.
With my fashion work VERY LITTLE post production is done. Again, I will stress that my lighting is NEVER “fixed” in post. I only use post to enhance colors, brightness, contrast etc., just as you would in a dark room.
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February 17th, 2010 at 6:48 pm
I love this shot
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Jason Christopher Reply:
February 22nd, 2010 at 4:02 am
Thank you Antonio !
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February 17th, 2010 at 6:49 pm
Also it helps a lot to have the right model and makeup and hair team. I am having trouble getting good models lately.
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Jason Christopher Reply:
February 22nd, 2010 at 4:06 am
Antonio, if you don’t have a solid hair and make up team and a great model, you don’t have a shot. The first three years of my career were spent building a solid team. That meant going through hair and make up artists like crazy. If I didn’t like them or their work, I never used them again. Your team is your backbone ! Don’t forget that.
As far as getting good fashion models is concerned, that is something that will take time. You’ve got to prove yourself to the agencies and it can be a catch 22. It’s tough but NOT impossible
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March 1st, 2010 at 10:36 pm
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March 8th, 2010 at 8:03 pm
If only all photographers lit this well, I’d enjoy my job even more
Danny
Professional Digital Retouching
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Jason Christopher Reply:
March 10th, 2010 at 8:45 pm
thank you so much Daniel !
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March 11th, 2010 at 2:15 pm
No problem Jason
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June 10th, 2011 at 2:14 pm
Love the bright irises and hair you got. I study various catch light modes, see http://glamourphotography.co/?p=739 and then there are the lit up irises…
I often have to use PS to light an iris up… the best for this is side lit from sun… there must be a better way to do it in studio?
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Jason Christopher Reply:
September 6th, 2011 at 2:36 pm
There sure is. Use my beauty lighting set up.
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