Photography Discussion: question and answer about anything involving photography
July 23rd, 2009There are so many topics I could cover within this blog that I could drive myself crazy. That is why I started this post. Any questions you have about fashion photography, portrait photography, wardrobe styling, make up artists, shooting agency models, portfolio discussion, portfolio review etc. ask me here. It will benefit us all ! 
So let’s see how long we can make this post. Just reply with a question and I will answer it. And remember to click the RSS feed to keep up to date with everyone’s questions and answers. Also if you feel that any of the social networks would benefit as well then please click the icons below. Thank you everyone !
July 23rd, 2009 at 7:31 pm
Hello!
Can you go over the lighting for your headshots located under “beauty” in your website? In particular the last ones. Are you using an umbrella of some sort? I did some testing with a 36 inch bounce umbrella and the only way I can get the catchlights that big in the model’s eyes is to have the umbrella right on top of the model (36 to 40 inches from front of umbrella to face). This gives a quick falloff, as expected, which I like but it wraps the model’s face so much that there’s no definition left. I’m thinking you must be using one of those big metal reflectors to get that big and still be “crisp”. Yes? No? Plus the skin tones I get are SO much better with a bare reflector than with any sort of umbrella or softbox (not sure why – maybe adds “white”?). Problem is with a “standard” reflector she’d have to wear the darn thing to get those catchlights! Plus I’d think it’d be awefully hard up anywhere near that close.
Lots of other questions but this is weighing on my mind.
Thank you!
Irv
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 24th, 2009 at 9:56 am
Hi Irv ! Great question. I shoot my beauty photos with this Westcott optical white satin 32″ umbrella with a removable black backing. I use such a small photographic umbrella because it gives me just enough contrast to keep the face looking three dimensional and not flat. Remember that the larger the light source the softer and more broad your light will be. The white satin is the key here. White is too soft, silver is too harsh, so I have found that using white satin is a nice blend of both. I have NEVER used a beauty dish as I just don’t like the look it produces, but that is my opinion. Have a look at this post using light modifiers in fashion photography. You can see the I don’t place the umbrella flat to the model, I tilt it down a bit to create a nice butterfly pattern under the nose.
There was a time I used a medium soft box on top and a strip bank on the bottom which will give you the larger catch lights. I don’t do that anymore because you just don’t need to. I find that using a small umbrella and a round silver reflector at breast level gives me the beauty lighting I am looking for.
Now as far as getting good skin tones is concerned, you need to shoot a Gretag Macbeth Mini ColorChecker and when you import your photos to Lightroom or Photoshop you need to click on the light gray square to set your white balance correctly. What I do is set my white balance on the camera to either daylight or flash setting.
If you still need more explanation please feel free to ask away ! And don’t forget to click the RSS feed to keep up to date with replies. If you feel this post is worth sharing please click any of the social sharing icons. Thank you Irv !
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July 23rd, 2009 at 9:40 pm
For someone who wants to shoot “on location” editorial photography, what would be the first kit that they should buy considering a limited budget? ($1000) I am not looking for a particular brand, although a brand recommendation would be appreciated. I am looking specifically for advice as to what kind of light modifiers should be purchased as part of the first kit.
After some research, I know that the most affordable brands are the White Lightning/ Alien Bee stuff – I am contemplating buying at least one head for the main light source and using the hot shoe flashes for rim/ hair light. My question is this – For that first head (shooting outdoors on location) what sort of light modifiers should I get? Should I get a softbox? Umbrella? Beauty dish? Ring Light?
I like the idea of a beauty dish because there are obvious uses for it – the light that it produces is superb and good for young skin. At the same time, the light can be softened by putting a sock over it.
With the softbox or umbrella, the light is always going to look the same. It will always be the soft wrapping light.
As an alternative, if I bought a strobe with a beauty dish, I can get specular lighting without the sock, then change the quality of light and get softer lighting with a sock …. This seems to be a more versatile solution.
The other solution is to use a ring light. Ring light can be used in the traditional way on the lens to produce soft, shadowless light. With a battery pack, it represents some freedom to move with the model as she moves which is good if you are doing lifestyle photography.
A ring lite can at the same time be mounted off camera. Ring lights also have light modifiers which will once again help change the quality of light. I don’t think that the light modifiers on a right light will change as much as the beauty dish combination, but nonetheless, it is an interesting option.
So there are 3 options.
1) Strobe with softbox/octa
2) Strobe with beauty dish/sock
3) Ring light/ light modifier
Which one of them would work best in your opinion? Ultimately…. I know the answer is….. it really depends on what “look” I want to achieve I guess….. but when you’re limited for money…. it’s interesting to hear feedback.
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 26th, 2009 at 9:53 pm
Whew ! Tom that is a loaded post lol. And you are correct. My answer is… it depends on what look you are going for.
Ok so let’s start with this: when using a soft box or umbrella the light is NOT going to look the same. A soft box will give you MUCH softer light than an umbrella. An umbrella will give you more contrast and if you use a silver umbrella you get even more contrast which also equals harsher light.
Now the problem with using a strobe as your main light and hot shoe flashes/speed lights as hair or rim lights is that your color temperature is going to be totally different between your main and edge lights. You ALWAYS want to be consistent. If you go with a strobe as your main light you need a battery pack. Those can be VERY expensive. Stay away from Alien Bee, it’s junk. Same with white lightning. Yes they are affordable but they won’t last long and the build quality is junk.
My suggestion is go with one speed light and a reflector. Every outdoor shot you see on my site with the exception of a few shots in my advertising section , were shot with a speed light or just a reflector or a combination of both. This photo was shot with a Profoto 7B pack and a beauty dish with no sock. I rented that gear because I really do not want to spend 4k on a friggin battery pack. So then I got smarter and started shooting with my Metz speed light. The way I manipulate the speed light is what make my outdoor lighting special without having to spend a fortune. This photo was shot with a speed light mounted to my camera using the sun as my back light. This next photo was shot with just my white t shirt. This is Hedi Now this photo was shot with one large white umbrella and a strobe. I used a mono light and there was a house really close so I just ran a long extension cord.
So if you only have $1,000 you are not going to be able to buy a ring light and a power pack or a strobe with a power pack and an umbrella or a beauty dish. So what’s left ? MY solution
All you need is a speed light, a silver reflector and a white board…oh and a white t-shirt lol. I RECENTLY bought a Canon 5D Mark 2 and a Canon 580EX 2 speed light and both rock my socks off. Don’t get caught up in thinking you have to spend alot of money on gear. Use your fundamentals and if you don’t know your fundamentals then take my private photography workshop so you can learn the fundamentals.
With just a speed light, reflector and a white board I can create beautiful light. And always use the sun as your back light / hair light. I mean shit it’s free !
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July 24th, 2009 at 5:27 am
Thanks for doing this. Love the site.
1) Would you recommend one starting with 1 strobe/lighting to get familiar with using off-camera lighting?
2) When you first started out did you have the models bring their own clothing? This is what I run into issues with. I have certain ideas , but no wardrobe stylist so it’s up to me. I try to send example of the look needed so we can possibly recreate them. It’s so difficult.
I have 1,000 of questions, but I’ll spare you
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 27th, 2009 at 8:58 am
Hi Elle ! You are very welcome. I love answering questions and teaching.
Yes I recommend using one speed light, a medium sized umbrella and a light stand. When I first started shooting this was my set up. I had a Canon off camera flash, an off camera shoe cord that connected the flash to my camera and shot many head shots, family portraits etc. If you can afford it I would get a set of pocket wizards instead of the off camera shoe cord. You will have much more freedom to move your light anywhere you want it.
Ahhhhhh yes clothes ! A VERY important aspect of the photo shoot. When I first started I asked the models to bring their own clothes. Back then there was no internet so I would describe to them on the phone the look I wanted and I would also tell them to look at certain ads from designers in the magazines. The models would either buy and return the clothes or maybe they already had clothes that looked similar.
If you have a credit card you could go buy the clothes and return them yourself. But there are many beginning wardrobe stylists out there that would love to test. If you go to some of these amateur websites like Model Mayhem, One Model Place there are tons of make up artists and wardrobe stylists etc.
And please ask as many questions as you wish. That is what this blog is for. Don’t be afraid to ask away !
You also might want to consider taking my private photography workshop. I cover all of this in detail and much more.
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July 24th, 2009 at 5:41 am
I want to know your opinion on getting started when you don’t have any extra money laying around. I love fashion photography but right now that’s kind of in the distant future for me. I’m getting started with wedding photography and have assisted a lot and feel pretty confident with shooting (especially natural light, but I am okay with on camera flash most of the time), but I have no idea what to buy first and where to begin.
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 27th, 2009 at 8:43 am
Hi Kelly,
Well I looked at your site and you take very nice wedding photos. Do you have a speed light ? If you don’t I would buy that first. I use a Canon 580 EX 2 and a Metz 54 MZ -4. Then I would buy a medium sized umbrella and a light stand to mount your speed light and umbrella to. That is actually how I started. If you could tell me more about any other gear you have I could try to give you more ideas.
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July 24th, 2009 at 11:01 am
Hello Jason
my name is Aj, and I am trying to figure out what direction to go
with gear? I recently sold my Nikon d2x, and all lenses and wanted to
start fresh.
I still have my D70, and the sb600, and afs Nikon f4 35-70 lens,and 50 1.8.
Just to have some thing.
What should I do as far as gear goes?
I am a student working towards my BA in Photography, ( fashion).
I was thinking about the 50d, or the 5d, and than what about lenses?
Should I really get pro gear as a student? and can I get away with
less for now? I am not making money shooting. Yet. lol. So I really
am wondering what direction do I go? Please help! Thanks very much.
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 27th, 2009 at 9:56 am
Hi AJ,
Why did you sell your Nikon D2X ? Are you asking me if you should make the switch to Canon ? Both Nikon and Canon are great cameras and lenses. If you’re a student can you rent gear from your school to try out first ?
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July 27th, 2009 at 9:18 am
Hi, thanks! I have a speedlight (and I’m nikon which might make things a little more difficult for you in suggesting things), but just one. Do you suggest using one on camera and one with the umbrella with pocket wizards? And where are some good places to learn about the various settings on the flash (or, what settings do you recommend as a good starting point)?
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 27th, 2009 at 9:52 am
Nikon is very good gear and I know how to use Nikon as well. When it comes down to it a flash is a flash, a camera is a camera. They both do the same things, it’s just that the menus and layout of buttons are different. I suggest using one with the umbrella and that is it UNLESS you can afford to buy another speed light. Until you can afford to buy another one, remember that the sun is a light source too ! So what I have always done and still do is use the sun as my back light and the speed light as my main. So obviously if the sun is over head you can’t use it as a back light. That is where another speed light would come in handy.
And to learn about the various settings on the flash ? Have you tried reading the manual ? LOL Sorry to be a smart ass but you would be surprised how much info the manual gives you. If you want to know which settings work best in different situations well that comes from experimentation. I had to learn and experiment with film ! There was no digital and it cost me a fortune. Now with the advent of digital you have nothing to lose. If you can’t get a model to practice on, use a tree, try to get a mannequin from a trash bin, or a garage sale or just buy one. Even a big stuffed teddy bear will work as a stand in. Think outside the box
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shreta Reply:
July 29th, 2011 at 2:00 pm
Hi Jason.
Your website is is amazing just as is ur blog and most of all ur work! I have been reading so much here and it has helped in in ways and I cant wait to try out more techniques in my personal and commercial work. I have one question though.
You recommend using speedlight with an umbrella. But How do u connect the speedlight on to the light stand? You get those connecting widgets..are they to be used to connect the speed light to the stand and then pass the umbrella through it?..
anothe thing..you said here use sun as the back light and if the sun is over head then you have to use another speedlight. In this case will the light set up be such:
You mount the speed light on the stand with an umbrella and use it as back light and another speed light on the camera used as main?
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
September 6th, 2011 at 2:25 pm
Hi Shreta. These are things I teach in my workshop. It’s really much to go over for a blog post. Please inquire about my private workshop.
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July 27th, 2009 at 10:58 am
I would suggest to anyone that can afford Jason’s fashion photography workshop to do it !! My workshop with him back in May has made me a much better photographer.
Over the 3 days I spent with him, I was able to see the attention to detail he had with each of his photo shoots and the level of information he gave me was more than I expected. I was able to come back home and integrate alot of the off camera lighting techniques into my wedding and portrait photography. From my experience it felt like there was nothing Jason was unwilling to discuss regarding his photography, it literally felt like an “All access pass” into Jason Christopher Photography.
Cheers
Dave
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July 27th, 2009 at 3:54 pm
I’ll try and dig my manual out of the hole it’s hidden in and figure some flash things out. I’m too lazy! But I will fix that and heed your advice. Thanks
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July 27th, 2009 at 6:16 pm
Thanks for answering my previous question. It was very helpful, I’m sticking with what I have and wait until I get buy my very own Speedo’s or Profotos!
Here’s another question for you.
Size of print for portfolio
What is the size for printed portfolios for photographers? Is 8.5 x 11 sufficient or is it 11 x 14?
Which lab do you trust your prints for your portfolio to be printed to?
Thanks once again!
tom
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 28th, 2009 at 9:57 am
Hey Tom, you’re very welcome. Photographers portfolios should be 11×14. That means the actual photographic print size should be 11×14. The print doesn’t need to be full bleed. If you like borders it is ok to have a border. Sometimes because of the crop factor with 35mm if you crop too tight in camera then you will not get a full bleed print so you print your photo on 11×14 paper with borders.
I do my own digital printing. I have an Epson R1900 that is amazing ! I make sure my monitors are color calibrated and this way I have complete control over my own images. And if I need to print a certain photo for a meeting I can print it and not have to wait.
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July 28th, 2009 at 10:02 am
Thanks for answering my questions!
I’m actually looking into coming to CA very soon. If all goes well I’ll definitely contact you about the workshop.
I have other questions! I’ll definitely be back lol.
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 28th, 2009 at 10:10 am
Hi Elle ! You are very welcome. That would be great if you signed up for my photography workshop ! I want to help everyone ! We are all brothers and I want to share and give back any way I can.
And I look forward to more of your questions. Please do not hesitate to ask as much as you want. This blog is great for helping with tips and advice however, a hands on workshop is the most effective way to really dial in your skills.
I thank you personally for being a part of my blog
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August 4th, 2009 at 11:19 pm
Hello, I am trying to get gear together.
So I had asked a few questions about it in the past but hear goes..
I am trying to get started as a Fashion photographer but what do I need as far as Camera body, and lenses, and any other must haves in the bag just to get me on my feet… I know it seems to be the light thats make or break.. So if there is a list of what I should own, and what I should have as a list of rentals only? I also herd you say some thing about photography insurance? I think thats great where do I get it? I hope this is not too much! Thanks again..
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
August 8th, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Hi Aj,
Well you need a camera with a full frame sensor, you need an 85mm for 3/4 body shots, a wide lens which you could go with a Canon 24-70 2.8 and a Canon 580EXII speed light. That will get you started and able to shoot everything from head shots to group shots. You do need lights but you could use your speed light and or rent lights until you can afford an actual light kit,
Photography insurance is important to cover replacement of gear that gets lost or stolen or damaged. But you also need photography insurance for liability. When you are on a shoot and someone gets hurt you could get sued. If you need to rent a studio or obtain a permit to shoot at a particular location, you will need to have insurance. Photography insurance runs about $500 a year and more depending on how much gear you have. I have my photography business insurance through State Farm, but you can get it through Hill and Usher, Tom Pickard and others that I can’t remember right now but if you call any rental house they can give you more names. Calumet Photo has a list of insurance companies for photographers.
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August 4th, 2009 at 11:55 pm
I mean as far as camera body’s goes whats good enough? I mean I had the d2x, but It seemed dated? and what lenses once I have the body.. Like do you use more prime lenses, or are you using the 18-70 2.8L , or the 24-105… But what I am saying is I really dont care what brand, > Nikon or cannon, but what is going to take me farther.. it all comes down to money.. i cant buy anything Nikon for cheap.. but as far as full frame Cannon I can buy the old 5d for fairly reasonable, or even the new 5dmark II is cheaper than Nikon’s match… so I know its kinda redundant, but I am starting off fresh…
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Jason Christopher Reply:
August 8th, 2009 at 8:55 pm
Ok AJ all you need to remember is this: THE GEAR DOES NOT MAKE YOU A GREAT PHOTOGRAPHER. Buy the best you can afford. I shoot with fixed prime lenses 2.8 and faster. But when I started shooting I couldn’t afford that. When I started shooting digital I used a Canon Rebel and the shitty lens it comes with but guess what ? You never would have known that I shot with such crappy gear. My photos didn’t have a watermark all across them that said Jason Christopher shoots with a Rebel and a crappy lens. lol I actually just bought a Canon 5D Mark II but that isn’t going to make me an even BETTER photographer. The lenses I own are – 50mm 1.4 85mm 1.8 100mm 2.8 macro , 200mm 2.8 L and a 28-70 2.8 L All great gear but at the end of the day if I can’t direct a photo shoot it doesn’t matter what gear I have.
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Aj Reply:
January 24th, 2010 at 3:19 am
@Jason Christopher, first off I just wanted to say thanks for taking time to respond to my many questions.. So back to the gear talk.. Sorry I am just really trying to figure this out.. so you said Full Frame Sensor? So If you had to start from scratch and you had 3,000 would you spend the money on the body or lenses? Cause I could get the 5d Mark II, but than be stuck with the kit lens for awhile till I could afford another nice lens..? That was my plan, but I am just making sure, I am weary of spending 2500, on a body that has such mixed reviews.. and I am not sure if going with the Nikon D700, might be better? but the 12 Mpix, has got me wondering.. But thanks for all your time and hope that I am not over thinking this..
[Reply]
admin Reply:
January 27th, 2010 at 6:29 pm
Hi AJ,
You’re very welcome brotha, anytime !
What is interesting about this question is if you asked me this back in the film days I would tell you without a doubt to go with the better lens because back in the day a film camera was a film camera. They all were the same. It was a box that let light in.
Now with digital we have full frame sensors, CCD versus CMOS blah blah blah. It sucks and I hate it.
So to answer your question I would buy the full frame sensor without a doubt. Nikon versus Canon ? Well you know my answer. The 5D Mark 2 is AMAZING. Don’t believe all these reviews about bad focus and all this other bullshit. Yes there might have been some lemons but man I have not had one problem with it. I put it on manual and shoot like I am shooting film. I focus with the center focus mark and sometimes I will switch to any of the other sensors and always get a sharp shot.
If you can’t afford a great lens right now, rent one until you can buy your own. Yes good glass is VERY important. Now days though so is a great full frame sensor and it is much less expensive to rent a lens than a camera.
Thank you for your support AJ !
Cheers !
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August 7th, 2009 at 12:12 pm
hey jason,
it looks like my trip to LA is pretty solid with a few details to be ironed out. i added my website link ^ up there. i’m pretty much starting out as you can tell by the questions i’ve asked before.
i have a MM account, and i’m taking the advice to contact agencies in my area. so thanks
Now on to the questions:
1. I currently use a Nikon D80, SB-600, Silver/Gold Reflector, 85MM F/1.8 & 50MM F/1.4 – I’m looking to purchase a second body. I was looking at a Nikon D300 for upcoming weddings (with the addition of a couple of lenses).
Do you believe the current kit I have will suffice for getting into the fashion/glamour side of things? No studio space at this time so it’ll be outdoors. I just don’t want to complicate things if there is no need to.
I have the light stand, umbrella, & pocket wizards on my list of purchases as well.
if you could please take a look at my site & give me ANY advice i’d greatly appreciate it. i haven’t uploaded any new work as of yet.
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
August 11th, 2009 at 7:50 pm
Hi Elle,
That’s great you are coming to LA ! You should sign up for my workshop.
I think what you have for gear is just fine. The gear doesn’t make you a better photographer. I will look at your site as soon as I get some time.
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August 8th, 2009 at 5:48 pm
Hi Jason:
I have a question about monitor callibration. I’m not really sure what product to use. There are five billion different products on the market that range anywhere from $25 to $1000. Do I need an expensive one to make sure that I am getting the best callibration?
Also… I have an lcd monitor… so does that need something special? And finally, what if I do not print my own photos. I usually print with Millers, MPIX Pro, or a few others. Should I use their suggested callibration tools to make sure that my monitor is callibrated to their printer? I hope not since they want about $600 for the callibrator. HELP! How can I make sure that what I see on my screen is what I get back when I order my prints? I always edit my own photos (which I love to do)!
Thanks -
Wendy from Nashville
http://www.wendycphotography.com
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August 10th, 2009 at 3:12 pm
Hi Wendy!
Color calibration for digital photographers is VERY important. You do not have to spend $1,000 but if this is a career or even part time and you are selling prints then you MUST have a work flow that turns out accurate color or black and white. The first thing you want to make sure of is that you set your camera to shoot in RGB NOT sRGB.
A very good and fairly priced calibration system for your monitor is made by x-Rite and it’s called the Eye One Display. The product comes with software and is very easy to use. You can find it here at B&H Photo http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/484457-REG/X_Rite_EODLT_Eye_One_Display_LT_Color.html#reviews. The website of X-Rite is very informative about color calibration. http://www.xrite.com/home.aspx And the best solution is to get yourself your own printer. I suggest the Epson R1900, 2400 or 2800. Yes the initial investment is not inexpensive but this career is also not a career where you can cut corners and be successful.
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August 29th, 2009 at 9:45 pm
Hi Jason, I was just wondering how you were able to start assisting Jerry Avenaim? How much experience did you have before approaching him?
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August 31st, 2009 at 10:38 pm
Hey Jason, tremendous amounts of quality advice here, I bet the workshop is a bomb!
My Q: I’m considering a lighting kit from alien bees for some fashion and editorial work.
http://www.alienbees.com/packages.html
What is your take on their lights vs. a couple canon speedlite 580? Or better yet, what would you get within a lighting budget of $1500.
Thanks a lot!
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September 22nd, 2009 at 11:40 am
Hi Jason! Great pictures and great site! I love the advice you’ve provided, it’s very helpful!
So, i have the necessary gear (also Canon 5D mkII and 5D with an array of L lens – i shoot weddings as well). So now what.. how do i start getting into the realm of fashion photography.. i understand that i need to build my portfolio with 11×14 size prints, and possibly a MM account (is that a must?) to showcase my work to others.. but once i have those lined up, how do i get my work in front of potential clients. Are there services or a marketing agency you use to get your photography visible? Once i have a potential client, what proposals or contracts do i provide to the client? any samples/help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you in advance!
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
September 23rd, 2009 at 8:16 am
Hi Michael,
Thank you for the compliments. Ok first things first. I looked at your site. You do very nice work.
1. You need to learn fashion BEFORE you even start shooting fashion. That means studying fashion magazines, books, study past and present designers, photographers, make up artists etc. Learn what a fashion editorial is and how to shoot one.
2. Once you know fashion then you start shooting fashion models. That means models who are AT LEAST 5′ 8″ and thin. How do you get models ? You walk into a modeling agency just like I did and tell the bookers that you are working on your fashion portfolio and would like to test their models. They will give you girls from their new faces board and you shoot very clean no frills photos. You won’t get paid so don’t even ask.
3. You get yourself an 11×14 portfolio, a good place is houseofportfolios.com.
4. You could get on Model Mayhem but that site has only a handful of good models, make up and hair people and photographers. My best advice for you to market yourself:
5. Change your site from flash to a very simple HTML site. It needs to be easy and clear to navigate with a simple solid background color AND it needs to be optimized for search engines.
You need to build a team of SOLID make up, hair and wardrobe artists. Back in the day before the internet it took me 3 years to finally obtain a solid team of artists. If this sounds like it is a lot of work…… IT IS ! And if you really want it, go get it.
I offer private one on one fashion photography workshops that would really jump start your fashion photography by leaps and bounds. Instead of trying to discover all of this on your own which is difficult, you take my workshop and after the two days you will be a new man/photographer. Check out the details here http://jasonchristopher.com/blog/digital-fashion-photography-workshops-in-los-angeles-fashion-portrait-commercial/
I will upload a sample contract in a separate post.
Thank you for your questions Michael. Please don’t hesitate to keep on asking
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September 23rd, 2009 at 8:04 pm
Hi Jason,
Thank for the compliments! and definately, thank you for the response! The information is greatly appreciated and very valuable.
Yes, i totally agree, about learning about the Fashion first. I have so much to learn about this area that im sure ill keep busy for some time before even planning a shoot. Which give me time to look for models, MUA’s, hair stylist and others to build a team. Im glad you mentioned the AT LEAST 5′ 8″ and thin. It gives me a good starting point when looking for models. i think for starting out, ill take any pretty face that’s willing to model, just so i can practice.
I have started looking at the Model Mayhem stuff, and have heard some mixed experiences with the models on that site. The majority of the photographers i’ve read or talked to have pretty much said the same thing, “the models are flaky”. I will figure out a way to get models when trying to market myself.
I am in the process of a site redesign, so the information you provided is very helpful. I will keep that in mind when i start developing the site.
I will definately attend one of your workshops, once the money is available.
Thank you again!!
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
September 24th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
Hi Michael,
You’re very welcome. Ya take my advice and you won’t go wrong. You are always welcome to ask anything you need. I look forward to you taking my private workshop.
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October 12th, 2009 at 9:56 am
Hey Jason, what about my Q? Can I get an answer on the lights. Thanks a lot!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
October 22nd, 2009 at 7:56 pm
Hi Mark. I am so sorry. I don’t know why I didn’t answer it. I just found your question now. I don’t think Alien Bees are good lights at all. They are junk. They are made of cheap plastic and they won’t last long. When it comes to photography gear you get what you pay for. Canon 580′s are great but if you have a budget of $1,500 I would go with Hensels or even Calumet Travel Lights. Calumet makes some solid gear. You can get a nice 3 light kit for I think 2k. Check them out. I have and I like them.
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October 23rd, 2009 at 12:13 pm
Hi
I was hoping you would be able to share with us your tips on fashion Photography.
I am currently just starting to shoot some portfolio’s with some lovely models, and lucky for me, they have helped me achieve some excellent shots ( well I think)
What tips could you share on outdoor fashion shoots, with using just natural light?
I have in my plans a photo shoot with a grafitti background, but stunning evening gowns.
I dont want to use any flash. Or carry my mobile studio kit around.
Anything would be very much appreciated.
I also hope I have posted this in the right spot!???
Cheers
Sandi
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November 13th, 2009 at 4:28 am
Jason,
The only question I have is that for a beginner who is starting her own studio, is what lighting gear do I need to start out with? I’m really confused…. I went to strobist and he had tons of suggestions… I have an SB800 and an SU-800 (controller) and that’s it for lighting…oh and some interfit strobies portrait kit.. that’s it
My head hurts…!
Thank you for your time!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 17th, 2009 at 3:28 pm
Hi Evangeline,
When starting your own studio for photography you should own at least three lights. I would buy monolights first instead of a set of strobes and packs. Monolights are less expensive and easier to take with you if you ever need to go out to a location. The most cost effective way of doing this is to buy a kit. A lighting kit will come with 3 monolights, stands, and either a soft box or a couple umbrellas. You for sure want a soft box, medium size is good and also an umbrella.
Calumet monolights are very good and are not very expensive. I have heard that Alien Bees are very good and for a little more money you should look at Hensel. Of course if you can afford Profoto or Broncolor then go that way. I hope this helps. If you need more help just ask. And remember I offer private photography workshops which are really great because it is one on one with a model and make up artist.
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November 15th, 2009 at 2:08 pm
My goodness you seem like such a great guy! I’ve only just stumbled across your website so I can’t wait to read the rest of the posts. I also did a quick search on my question but could not find any posts relating to it…so here goes!
I’ve recently been reading some blogs that talked about retouching pertaining to beauty and fashion. From all my years of playing with Photoshop, the most common tutorials I find to fix up skin is the healing brush, clone tool and the blur filter. But from what I have read (especially about the blur filter) is that it when printed large scale, these techniques will look horrible. These blogs offered sites and workshops that would teach the correct way of retouching but alas they all charge and I live in freaking Toronto…So do you have any tips for me? Or do you contract out your retouching?
Thanks btw =)
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 17th, 2009 at 3:14 pm
Well thank you very much Jen.
Jen I wish I could answer your question. I have a team of retouchers that do all of that for me. I am strictly a professional photographer. All your famous fashion photographers don’t do their own retouching, well ok MAYBE some do but 99.999999% do not. We don’t have time to retouch our own work. As far as workshops are concerned, of course they are going to charge. Why would they do a free workshop ?
I offer private workshops for photographers and if the photographer wants to learn retouching I bring in one of my retouchers. Distance isn’t a big deal. Dave Clee came all the way out from Ottawa Canada for a 3 day workshop ! It was awesome. So save up some money and come out to sunny California and you can learn photography and retouching
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November 18th, 2009 at 4:51 am
Hi Jason.. thank you so much for pointing me to the right direction. I’ve recently purchased a stand for my flash unit so I can practice. I haven’t decided on an umbrella yet though. Of the two which one would you recommend?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=75852&is=REG
OR http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=197057&is=REG
also, would you recommend that I get an umbrella tilt head?
I figured I think I’ll play with what I have for now and then eventually get the gear for studio lighting kit. Calumet monolights are pricey for me and I saw some Alien Bees package http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html that I’d save up for several months down the road
I would LOVE to attend your workshop but unfortunately I will need about 2K to head up there with lodging and travel… don’t have cash flow
Thanks again for your help!
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Jason Christopher Reply:
November 19th, 2009 at 3:56 pm
Hi Evangeline,
I would go with the Photek because you can also use the diffuser material which will give you nice soft light. As far as the tilt head, it all depends on what you want to shoot. It won’t hurt but you have to ask yourself what you would use it for.
You can also look for strobes used too. And my workshop would be great for you so start saving
Thank you for asking for help. Go through all my other posts. Just click the pull down menu to see all my archives.
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December 6th, 2009 at 6:04 pm
I just wanted to stop by your blog, Jason, to tell you HAPPY BIRTHDAY! You have been very quiet about the fact that today is your birthday! But I caught you! I also wanted to let you know how much I appreciate everything you have done to help me get my career off the ground! You have taught me so so much, and I will never be able to thank you enough. I think you are fabulous, and I am so blessed to have been mentored by you this year! You are one of a kind and truly talented! Happy Birthday Jason Christopher! I hope your day was everything you wanted it to be!
Wendy
Wendy C. Photography
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Jason Christopher Reply:
December 9th, 2009 at 1:00 pm
Awwwwww thank you Wendy ! I appreciate you in my life so much too. Remember that I will always be here to help and answer your questions.
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December 14th, 2009 at 3:27 pm
Hey Jason, love the blog and I feel fortunate to have a resource like you. I do have one question, it may be an obvious question, but can you clarify the difference between shooting fashion, glamour, and lifestyle? Is it possible that a photo can be considered all three? I have a difficult time categorizing my images when building my portfolio.
Thanks!
Jaymer
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Jason Christopher Reply:
December 15th, 2009 at 3:10 pm
Hey Jaymer, thank you.
I feel your pain lol. Categorizing images is not easy. I’ll start with the easy one. Lifestyle images show the model / models doing something. It doesn’t have to do so much with what the model is wearing. For instance, some photographers think that because the model is wearing casual clothes that the image is lifestyle. Well, if the model is just standing there against a blank background, it’s actually fashion. If she was outdoors wearing the same clothes eating an ice cream, riding a bike, roller blading, etc. then it’s a lifestyle image. You are showing the lifestyle of the person you are shooting.
Fashion – this is where many guys think the model has to be wearing couture to be called a fashion image. Soooo not true. So if a model is wearing tight sexy jeans and a sexy blouse that’s not fashion ? Of course it’s fashion. Any of your Target ads are fashion. An ad campaign for Versaci, D&G, Gucci, Alexander Mcqueen etc. are fashion ads as well. Now, here is where people get confused. Is that high fashion ? You bet your ass it is. Is it couture ? No. If you can buy it off the rack it’s not couture. Look up couture in the dictionary.
cou⋅ture
/kuˈtʊər; Fr. kuˈtür/ [koo-toor; Fr. koo-tyr]
1. The design and manufacture of fashionable clothes to a client’s specific design requirements and measurements. It’s a French word.
So, 99.9 % of photographers who think they are shooting couture because the clothes are “high fashion” are not shooting couture per say, they are shooting high fashion.
The fashion images on my site are not couture, some of them are high fashion of course.
Editorial – this is where I get many of my laughs. I see guys posting images of a construction worker and call it editorial. Well if it was published in a magazine along with a story about construction workers then yes it is editorial. But the editorial that is most popular is when a photographer shoots a pictorial story from 4 – 12 pages. You can also call it a theme. The point is that editorial images have to be cohesive and consistent with a look. Each image has to tie together to the next.
Now glamour is much more confusing. I think photographers have twisted the word around to suit it to their needs. For instance, the glamour of old Hollywood, the glamour of Monte Carlo etc. That’s not half naked chicks in front of the camera. Unfortunately many shooters call a photo glamour if they are shooting chicks with big tits pulling their panties down almost all the way just enough to tease the viewer.
I have glamour images on my site. Are they the cheesy “maxum” look ? Hell fucking no ! To me the glamour of today is CRAP. If I shot for Maxum I would use a different name because I in no way want to be associated with that crap. Do i like to look at it ? Of course. I’m not gay. Will I shoot it for pay ? Hell ya, but my real name will NOT ever be seen attached to that cheesy crap. Hell, almost all of Model Mayhem is that cheap glamour crap.
If you don’t mind being associated with that look then place those kind of photos under your glamour section.
I hope this helps clear things up for you buddy.
Now I’m ready to take on all the photographers that shoot that cheesy Model Mayhem crap ! LOL Come on guys, give to me. Tell me I’m wrong
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April 4th, 2010 at 10:36 pm
I was looking for some tips/steps to begin making contacts to shoot fashion editorials, once you have a portfolio, where do you start, who do you begin to contact and how? Thanks
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Jason Christopher Reply:
April 5th, 2010 at 11:41 am
Hi Jonah,
This is a great question. Many photographers when first starting out really have no clue what to do next. And there is no rule book or hand book that spells it out for us. So this is where I come in and pay it forward.
You contact magazines that fit your style. You call and ask for the photo editor or art director. Now at first you will probably just be transferred to voice mail. Don’t leave a message. Transfer back to the receptionist and kindly ask for their email.
The next step would be to email that person a promo card you have made and tell them what your goals are and that you would like to shoot for them. You probably won’t get a reply right away so you just send another one in a couple weeks. If you live close to the magazine you can go down there with your portfolio and request an interview. Be persistent but not a pest. There is a big difference.
And remember, you can open up any fashion magazine and the names and their emails will be listed right on the masthead.
I cover this and much more in my private photography workshop. Check out the workshop page for detailed info.
Thank you for your question Jonah !
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June 9th, 2010 at 2:39 pm
The, anything involving photography, caught my eye.
Please show mercy. First time im doin this, so i’m not sure how I’m notified if there are any responses to any of my questions. I’ll save this page an open it up again. Hope it works. Love the fact that you so gladly share your experience with everyone. Truly means alot to someone like me.
Very productively interactive site, mus say.
Doing mostly fashion. Buying my First flash, NIKON SB800(2nd hand).
I’m using a NikonD50
How do my camera settings communicate with my flash settings? Do I adjust my camera settings then adjust/select flash settings separately? Example once I’ve set my iso, aperture, shutter speed and taken the meter reading, do I then select my flash settings.
Could u help me understand a basic flash setup procedure e.g. set flash mode, then select flash speed…? If I’m making any sense.
I’ve learned that the focal length that my camera is on, affects the output of my flash?
How does me changing foul length affet my flash output?
Quote, “don’t shoot too fast cos u’ll blow up flash because all of the power u asking it to pump out by pushing it 3 full stops and zooming flash head to its max at 105mm .Which is another great feature.” ? I think I read this here. What does this mean? Sounds important.
Quote this site,” I set my flash to high sync speed mode so I could shoot at 500th shutter speed. Why shoot at such a high shutter speed? So I could capture a nice blue sky and not blow out the background. My Fstop was 6.3 ISO was 160. Now when u use such a fast shutter speed you obviously need to demand more power from your flash. Also using an Fstop of 6.3 demands more power. So I set my flash exposure compensation to plus 3Stops ! I also set my zoom head on the flash to 80mm instead of letting it set itself to 44mm automatically. As u can imagine I was asking my flash to do a lot and demanding a lot of power. So I had a quantam batter pack attached to give it the flash and extra power it needed.”
I‘m lost after, “Also using an Fstop of 6.3 demands more power”. Flash xposure compensation to 3stops? Zoom head? Set itself? How does setting itself ffect anything? Do I need a battery pack for my flash?
Quote,” I then set the flash to ETTL and high speed sync mode, dialed up the flash exposure 3 whole stops and zoomed the flash head to 105mm. I was standing about 8feet from the model with an 85mm lens on the camera. Now this is the awesome part! I then set my shutter speed to 1/1250th of a second! My Fstop was 4.5 and my ISO was 200. I shot away and this was the beautiful result even under the midday sun.
The high speed sync mode is my favourite feature. I now am not limited to syncing at only 1/1250th of a second. I can capture details in my background and control my contrast by using a very fast shutter speed.” Huh? What does dialing up flash exposure mean? How and why would u zoom a flash head? But could’nt a high sync mode of 1/1250th of a second overheat the flash?
Being able to zoom the flash head from 24mm all the way to 105mm gives the photographer so much more control and room to play. How?
Buying an SB800. I’m worried about it overheating. Heard that if u take too many shots in a row it could overheat. Apparently I’m spose to wait 2-3mins after doing 30 shots? Does this mean that need to pace my use of the flash/ allow it to recover?
I don’t want it to overheat or melt down (
Since theD50 does not cater for the commander mode, the only way(cost effectively) I have to shoot off camera is sync cable. I need a sync extension cable, cos most of the ones I’ve seen in the retail shops are very short. I’m Looking for a 10m or more at least.
What is high sync speed?
I’m quoting,” how to shoot wide open apertures with flash and hi speed sync”
What does this mean?
How do u keep your focus locked on subject, when the subject is moving ? focus tracking, and how does this work basically.
How do u set your camera flash to light your subject/model relative to background ?
Could one take meter reading off subject and then adjust setting within 3F stops ?
Quote, “At mid day you’re probably gonna get an F/16 which is very bright. So that means your flash needs an output at least F/11 and that is asking a lot from an off camera flash.” What in the world does this mean?
[Reply]
Jason Christopher Reply:
July 1st, 2010 at 3:07 pm
Hi Yaseen,
First off I want to thank you for your kind words. Second of all it is awesome that you are asking so many questions. I always encourage questions. However, this post is so long that my suggestion is to take a workshop. I realize you are not in LA but I welcome you to take my two day private workshop and find a way to get over here. I cover all of this.
Please don’t take my answer as me trying to sell you a workshop but the amount of information you are asking about is seriously enough to take two days or more to cover and you would get MUCH MUCH more out it if I worked with you one on one.
For now I think the most effective solution would be for you to post one subject at a time. You and everyone else reading would be able to take it all in at a much more practical pace.
So the next post I want to see from you is just ask about one issue. Then post again with another issue. If it takes 20 posts then so be it. I promise you I will answer every single post.
Just split this one huge post into many different posts. LOL I think I could read War and Peace faster than answering everything here. Ok bud ?
Thank you for your participation and I look forward to your future posts one at a time
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August 10th, 2011 at 12:04 pm
I have returned to your blog various times. The additional posts are incredibly fascinating and note worthy. I decided to signup for your rss feed, so I can keep up to date of your recent articles.
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